The icons of the Red Centre present an instantly recognisable image of Australia to people around the world. But this spectacular, and very large region, is perhaps less well known as the home of some of the country’s best bushwalks. Trails explore gorges, rocky summits and striking landmarks like Uluru and Kata-Tjuta. Here are some of our favourites.
ULURU BASE WALK (10.6km, 3.5 hours)
Start/Finish: Mala car park
The best way to experience the majesty – and immense size – of Uluru is to circumnavigate it from ground level on a well graded track that passes caves, gorges and waterholes and multiple sacred sites to the Anangu people. Start early in the morning at the Mala car park, named for the Pitjantjatjara/Yankunytjatjara word for the roufus hare-wallaby, an adorable critter that reached the brink of extinction but is now on the verge of being reintroduced into the wild after a successful breeding program.
Facing the rock, turn left to complete the walk in a clockwise direction. The first section follows the 1km Mala walk, which has regular stops at information boards describing interesting geological formations and sites of cultural significance – take the free ranger-guided walk each morning for an expert First Nations perspective on this ancient culture. The Mala walk ends at the awesome Kantju Gorge at the base of towering cliffs. After heavy rain this is the site of a thundering waterfall.
Retrace the path out of the gorge and turn right to head towards the road – the path continues east from here a little further from the base of the rock, reaching a toilet block near Kuniya Piti at the eastern end of Ulru. The path continues west along the rock’s southern side to reach the Kuniya car park and the track to the stunning Mutitjulu waterhole. It’s worth pausing at one of the few reliable water sources at Uluru to, as the parks brochure suggests, “sit quietly and listen to the sounds of the beginning of time”.
The final section of the walk rounds the western end of Uluru including the Pulari sacred site – this is a good area to see wildflowers and birds especially after rain – before completing the circuit by returning to the Mala car park.
VALLEY OF THE WINDS (7.4km, 3-4 hours)
Start/Finish: Valley of the Winds car park
One of Australia’s best day walks navigates some of the 36 giant domes that make up Kata-Tjuta, a 45-minute drive from Uluru and equally awe inspiring (Kata Tjuta is a Pitjantjatjara word meaning ‘many heads’ and the domes here rise as high as 500 metres). As with the Uluru base walk, it’s best to start early to beat the crowds and the full force of the sun. The full walk involves steep climbs and descents and is listed as grade four. After easing in with a flat section the path climbs to Karu Lookout for the first outstanding view of the day. The track is closed here if the temperature reaches 36 degrees. This is a good turnaround point if you’re not up to the full walk.
The track descends steeply from the lookout to a T-intersection – turn left to complete the circuit clockwise from here, crossing a creek to reach a rest station where you can sit in the shade and refill your water bottle. The track continues behind the domes through magificent desert country then climbs steeply to Karingana Lookout. You will definitely want a rest at the top, but fortunately this is about as good good as rest stops get with epic views in both directions from a narrow saddle between the giant domes.
After descending steeply down the other side the track follows a dry creek bed and turns right (north) to return to the junction – turn left here to climb back up to Karu Lookout then descend to the car park.
WALPA GORGE (2.6km, 1 hour)
Start/Finish: Walpa Gorge car park
A shorter but still spectacular in and out walk to sample the majesty of Kata-Tjuta. A rocky path rises from the car park and becomes a narrow track that heads into the gorge, culminating at a wooden viewing platform. If you’re lucky you might spot a wallaroo here along with an abundance of pretty wildflowers. Note that it can be very windy in the gorge. Return to the car park via the same route.
KINGS CANYON RIM (6km, 3-4 hours)
Start/Finish: Kings Canyon car park
Another serious contender for the title of Australia’s best day walk, the track tracks both sides of the mighty canyon, located midway between Uluru and Alice Springs (about a three-hour drive from Yulara). Again the advice is to avoid the middle of the day and start early in the morning or mid-afternoon, leaving enough time to complete the circuit before sunset. This is a strenuous walk with some very steep rough sections, but the effort is absolutely worth it with sensational 360-degree views of an incredible arid wilderness.
Pack a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water. The toughest test of the hike is at the very start – after walking through the gate from the car park the track immediately ascends 500 steps straight up a dry rocky slope. Take a few breathers on the way then a big swig from your drink bottle at the top. You made it! The track from here is a lot flatter with the main exception being a trip down to the Garden of Eden and back out again. But there is plenty of action before reaching that magical spot, starting with Priscilla’s Crack, named for its starring role in the classic Australian movie Priscilla Queen of the Desert, and continuing through the Lost City, a small maze of sandstone domes that looks like a miniture Purnululu (Bungle Bungles) – keep an eye out for arrows that mark the way through the ‘city’.
Up ahead is an option to take a short detour to Cotterills Lookout – this is highly recommended if only for the hair-raising crossing of Cotterills Bridge which spans a narrow fissure on the edge of the canyon. The lookout itself is a high dome with 360-degree views. After taking in the view retrace your steps, crossing the bridge again, to return to the main track and turn right. Soon after the track descends on a series of steps and crosses a wooden bridge over the Garden of Eden before ascending the other side – another detour here is a must to visit the garden, a cool oasis flanked by orange cliffs, palms and cycads.
Exiting the garden, the path rounds the eastern end of the canyon and heads back along the south wall – the undoubted highlight here is the constant views of the massive north wall on the other side. Signs beside the route offer regular reminders not to venture too close to the edge.
The final section of the walk is another treat as the track descends back to the car park through more domes, with a giant west-facing cliff a final exclamation point on one of Australia’s great single-day adventures.
ORMISTON POUND (8.5km, 3-4 hours)
Start/Finish: Ormiston Gorge car park
Ormiston Gorge, located 135km west of Alice Springs via Namatjira Drive, is a must-see landmark in Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park. You can stop for a short visit (there is a kiosk and visitor centre at the car park) or a swim in the near-permanent (but very cold) waterhole, or make a day of it by undertaking the walk through the gorge and the wider Ormiston Pound, a desert plain surrounded by hills and orange cliffs.
Start the walk by heading back along the access road and crossing the sandy bed of Ormiston Creek to complete the circuit in an anti-clockwise direction, picking up the track on the other side of the river as it climbs a rocky slope to attain the top of a ridge which is followed for the next 1km or so with great views in all directions, particularly looking north into the pound and towards the steep cliffs of Ormiston Gorge in the distance – though they won’t be for too long.
The trail swings north and drops off the ridge into the pound itself, crossing wide, flat spinifex country as the route strikes out north-west to hit the dry riverbed again. The route back is simple – follow the creek west as it enters Ormiston Gorge with steep cliffs on both sides then loops around to return to the waterhole and car park. However, there is one complication – entering the eastern end of the gorge involves navigating a series of waterholes, some of which can only be crossed by wading in the freezing cold water. It’s a good idea to ask at the visitor centre how deep the water is before heading out.
You can follow the rocky creek bed all the way back to the car park but a better option is to follow signs on the northern (right-hand) side of the creek that pick up a trail that climbs to Ghost Gum Lookout, which provides a magnificent bird’s-eye view over the gorge then winds down the opposite slope to the end of the walk.
One final note – this is a great place to spot black-footed rock wallabies often high in the cliffs so keep your eyes peeled especially early in the morning and late in the afternoon.
MOUNT SONDER/RUTJUPMA (15.8km, 6 hours)
Start/Finish: Redbank Gorge car park
Another wonderful day walk to scale the fourth-highest mountain in the Northern Territory, at 1380m. The track follows section 12 of the 14-day Larapinta Trail, but if you’r e just going out for the day start at the car park for Redbank Gorge, reached via turning off Namatjira Drive 156km from Alice Springs (19km past Glen Helen Resort) and following the unsealed 5km access road (the last section is quite rough and high-clearance vehicles are recommended). There is a shelter and toilet at the car park. Many walkers aim to reach the summit for sunrise, which means setting an extremely early alarm and hitting the trail at least 2.5 hours before the sun is due to come up. This requires a head torch but has the advantage of reducing visibility of the long climb ahead. The track is mostly easy to follow and there are reflective poles at regular intervals to keep you on the right path.
Whether walking in light or darkness, start by leaving the car park and heading northwest on the track to Redbank Gorge for 200 metres to reach the wide dry Redbank Creek. The track to the gorge continues to the left (the gorge is another 1km away), ignore that path and cross the creek bed, picking up the path on the other side and climbing for about 500 metres to another junction. The trail to the right branches off to section 11 of the Larapinta Trail which ends at Glen Helen, so you don’t want to go that way. Continue north on the track signposted ‘Mt Sonder summit 8 hrs 16 km return’ (an extremely conservative time estimate for fit walkers).
The trail climbs onto the range via a zig-zag track to reach the saddle 2.3km (about one hour) from the walk start. Some people turn around here but the views only get better as the trail continues east along the ridge – a spine of 850 million-year-old Heavitree quartzite – making the long climb towards the summit. Low vegetation makes for expansive views – keep an eye out for wildflowers and flocks of wild budgies. It’s 5.6km from the saddle to the top, which is reached just after passing a weather station and with a real sense of achievement, especially if you arrive just as the sun peeks above the horizon and lights up the cliffs of the mountain’s twin summits. The view from the top is simply breathtaking and a helpful cairn points out the distance to key landmarks in all directions.
It seems a bit petty to point out that you aren’t standing on the highest point of the mountain, but you have an incredible view of the second summit, which is just 20 metres higher and about 750 metres (and an impassable ravine) away. After a well-earned break follow the same route back to the car park.
STANDLEY CHASM (2.4km, 30 minutes)
Start/Finish: Standley Chasm kiosk
One of the first attractions reached after heading west out of Alice Springs (turn right off Larapinta Drive), Standley Chasm is a gap only a few metres wide in the West Macdonnell Range with steep cliffs on both sides. The chasm is on private property and you will need to purchase a ticket in the kiosk for $12 then follow the flat track for about 15 minutes to the gorge. The optimum time to visit is midday when the overhead sun lights up both sides of the chasm but you might be joined by large crowds at this time. For a different perspective follow the rough trail that leaves the main path on the left for a short, sharp climb to a viewpoint above the cliffs.
OTHER THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Many of the spectacular features listed above – and many more – can be seen from the road or lookout points a short walk from a car park. The best known examples are the Uluru sunset and sunrise viewing areas and the sunset viewing area and dune viewing area. Mount Sonder lookout (turn off Namatjira Drive just past Glen Helen) is also highly recommended, while short walking tracks lead to attractions including Glen Helen Gorge, Ellery Creek Big Hole and Serpentine Gorge. Walking and sightseeing are the best way to see the Red Centre, while four-wheel drivers can head deeper into wild places like Rainbow Valley and Finke Gorge National Park. The Alice Springs Desert Park is worth a few hours of your time to see the desert come to life in aviaries and an excellent nocturnal house that house the arid country’s native animals and plants. And there are fantastic cultural tours and activities hosted by local traditional owners to provide a much deeper understanding and connection with this amazing place.
FLORA AND FAUNA
The desert might appear barren but there is plenty of life around. Kangaroos, emus and dingoes are some of the bigger local inhabitants but remember to look down – for lizards like thorny devils, dragons and goannas – and up for birds ranging from colourful parrots to large flocks of zebra finches and wedge-tailed eagles circling high overhead. Drivers, especially on the road between Uluru and Kata-Tjuta, should also keep an eye out for mobs of camels. Hardy river red gums and iconic ghost gums cling to rocky slopes and a variety of desert wildflowers add colour to the landscape especially after rain. The most common plant you’ll see is spinifex, a type of spiky grass – as any walker will find out if they wander too far from the formed path.
ACCESS
The immense distances between some of the main attractions of the Red Centre is something that catches many visitors by surprise. On a map Uluru and Alice Springs might not look far apart, but it’s a 498km drive from one to the other. This isn’t to dissuade you from making the trip, but plan ahead and give yourself plenty of time (and fuel). The community of Yulara is the base for exploring Uluru and Kata-Tjuta; there is a small shopping centre, post office and multiple hotels here. Domestic airlines fly to Ayers Rock Airport, 10 minutes from Yulara, from most state capitals. You can hire and return cars here, as well as at Alice Springs Airport, which is 14km south of the town.
WEATHER
Hot. Dry. Attempting long walks is not really recommended outside the peak visiting season between May and September unless you’re starting extremely early in the morning. Beware that at this time temperatures at night can drop to close to zero.
CAMPING AND ACCOMMODATION
There are several hotels and Yulara and a campground where sites can be booked online for $43 per night. There is no accommodation at Kata-Tjuta. The Kings Canyon Discovery Resort and campground is the base for exploring the canyon. There is no shortage of accommodation at Alice Springs but staying in Tjoritja/West Macdonnell National Park is rewarding and much closer to many of the sites listed here. The only commercial accommodation is at Glen Helen Gorge, where you can find basic cabins and a campground, but there are great bush campsites throughout the national park. You can book a campsite online here.
SAFETY/WARNINGS
Heat and lack of water can be a killer, and the sheer remoteness of many of these locations make it an area where extra care and caution is required. Always carry plenty of water and let someone know where you’re going and when you expect to return.
MORE INFORMATION
Tjoritja / West MacDonnell National Park NT Gov page
Parks Australia Uluru-Kata-Tjuta National Park page
These descriptions are a guide only. While we have made every effort to make them accurate, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained while using them. Make sure you use an up-to-date map and consult rangers before heading o